Town of Duane NY

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Duane Town Historian

Address:

356 County Route 26 Duane, Malone, NY 12953

Telephone:

(518) 483-4369

Contact:

Gloria Gori

Position:

Town Historian

Business hours:

No set hours, please write for information.

Collection:

All town records, birth and death certificates, tax rolls, some maps, copies of contracts with the Duane Fire Department, and some materials on early settlers. Materials are housed in a new room built onto the Duane Town Garage on Route 26 in Duane.

Restrictions:

Please write; copies of pertinent records are available.

 

Franklin County Historical and Museum Society Website Link

 

Town of Duane Historical Notes

Prepared by:  Gloria Gori, Town Historian

 

“Bear On Fire”  “Bear On Fire”

 

           " Fairly early in the spring of 1901,”  so says Orman Doty of Rainbow Lake, “my cousin, Seymore 

    Doty, and I decided to do a little trapping.  So we went onto the side of Loon Lake Mountain, and beyond,

    until we found a good spot for building a trapper’s camp in an area where we found plentiful signs of

    animal game.”

          Mr. Doty said that in those days most of the trapping camps were made from pieced spruce poles,

    with those for walls standing up-right, they, and the poles for rafters, being spaced about two feet apart. 

    Then slabs of spruce bark were used to cover walls and roof to make it fairly secure against the weather. 

    As they wandered around they remembered that they had been told by “old Mr. James Wardner” that

    near the end of one of the heavy-wooded hills, in this very area there was a cave where bears always

    denned up for the winter.  They remembered that he had told them that he, Jim and his brother Seth, had

    killed five bears, in that one cave one fall.  As Mr. Doty continued his story to me, he said “We weren’t    

    really looking for the cave but ran into it accidentally.  It was just a big dark spot, partly hidden, in the side of a hill.  We could see only darkness as we got down and looked into it.  We hadn’t looked for it, but  

    seeing we found it we were bound to explore  it before leaving, so we hunted around for some good

    pitchy pine roots.  We set fire to a couple of them and so had a pair of good torches, though a little 

    smoky, that would burn for hours.

        “We had to get down low and crawl into the hole, torch in hand, but when we were in about fifty feet or

    so the channel opened up into an enlarged uncomfortably fair-sized room.  We had already decided we

    were in the right cave for the smell of bear almost smothered us.”  “We were inching along, and looking

    around in the light from our torches, when we saw a second hole in one side of the room.  I was ahead of

    Seymore when we were startled from a roar that echoed, and re-echoed in our underground chamber. 

    Startled I looked around and there was a big black bear just coming out of the other hole of the cave,

    and Seymore hung tight to his torch, meaning to put up a fight if he had to.  When the bear passed by  

    him, heading straight for the outside, Seymore almost automatically reached out and gave a quick swipe

    with the torch along the bear’s back.  The bear hastened his half-awake gait that he had been using,

    growling and roaring continuously, lumbered out of the cave.  Seymore and I suddenly decided we had

    explored enough and we got down and crawled out too, as fast as we could manage it.”  “By the time we

    were outside the bear was some distance down the mountain—rolling, running, and tumbling, looking like

    a big ball of fire, growling and roaring all the way.  Hayes Brook was near the foot of the mountain about a

    mile below us and the bear seemed to know it as well as we did for he was heading there with all speed.  

 

        As we stood and watched we saw a very frightening thing happening, for the bear was leaving a

    trail of fire behind him as he went.  “It happened that “old Lyme DeBar” was fishing in the brook when he

    heard an amazing amount of snarling and growling.  He looked around and saw a big ball of fire coming

    right at him.  His eyes nearly popped out.  He threw his string of fish one way and his pole another and

    RAN.  McCollum’s Hotel was almost two miles away, but the old man headed in that direction as fast as

    he could go.  When he smashed through the door he fell in a dead faint.  When the folks got him brought

    to, all he could say was “Bear on fire, Bear on fire!”  It was several hours before he could tell them

    anything more.  Of course he didn’t have much more to tell for he hadn’t seen us, and he had no way of

    knowing how the bear caught fire.” “The wind was blowing some and every little fire the bear had started  

    soon all joined together and become a big one.  I tell you we were two scared young fellows.  We didn’t

    dare go back home from Onchiota for we would have been traveling the same direction the fire was.  Also

    if anyone knew we had been out there they might get the notion we had set it.  So we started up-wind,

    circled around and came out two days later at Jones Pond.” “For several years we never told anyone

    about seeing the bear, and then not about catching it on fire; and of course we never finished our camp.”

  

“After the fire some of the people from McCollum’s found the carcass of the bear near the brook with the most of the meat burned off from it.”

 

Oh if our forest could speak, what stories they could tell.  Now ‘Old Lyme Debar grew up on the shores of Debar Pond.  In tribute to the Debar family, Debar Mountain was named.  Tammy Plawecki of E. Hampstead, NH, a descendant niece of the Debars, passed this story onto me.  This story was found in one of the early Saranac Lake papers.

 

                                                                                      Gloria Gori,  Town Historian

 

 

Studley Hill

 

        At one time in the early 1900’s our Studley Hill held the distinction of being the most difficult road in the

    North due to its extreme steepness combined with several sharp curves.  James Duane, our founder,

    started building the road in 1824 to gain access to his property.  He constructed a brick kiln at the foot of 

    the hill and hired Mr. Studley to manage the kiln.  Due to the respect he held for Mr. Studley, he named 

    the infamous hill, Studley.  Mr. Duane then cleared 300 acres of land to build his residence, which was

    one of  its best in the county at that time.  This road also was the only road leaving Malone that went to

    Duane.  In In the 1920’s, Studley Hill Road became the testing grounds for the new-fangled contraption,

    the  automobile.

    The following story was written by Lawrence Gooley, “Studley Hill Road: The Waterloo of All Cars”, which

    was taken from the Adirondack Almanack, Jan. 17, 2011.

 

       There are many well known automobile testing sites- Utah’s Bonneville Salt Flats and Colorado’s Pikes

    Peak come to mind, and some lesser known like Michigan Packard Proving Grounds, built in the 1920’s. 

    Dozens of official testing grounds have been used and by now, you’ve probably guessed it.  Yep… the

    Adirondacks once had their very own. While it didn’t have a national profile, Franklin County’s Studley Hill 

    was widely reputed as the most difficult road in the north- unevenly surfaced, extremely steep, and with

    several sharp curves.  Because hill- climbing ability was primary in determining a car’s quality, events and

    competitions became important  manufactures and very popular with the public.  Studley Hill is historically

    significant for many reasons, but the most unusual is the irresistible challenge it presented to some of the

    top car manufacturer’s of the early 20th century. Well, the lure actually was resistible for a while, and for

    good reason: fear of failure.   alesmen wished tobrag that their product could achieve wonderful things

    that other cars couldn’t, but it was best   to first try     Studley on the sly.  If you didn’t conquer the hill, you

    didn’t talk much about it.  That made for a lot of quiet car salesmen in the North Country.   

     

      The automobile was still a new-fangled contraption that few people could afford, and folks traveling 

    south from Malone on the Duane Road occasionally provided great amusement to those living on or near

    the hill.  Some motored there for the challenge, and others came on joy rides, but from 1910 to 1920, no

    one made it up Studley Hill’s steep northern slope.  Only horse-or oxen-drawn vehicles could pull it

    off.Tradition so often gives way to technology, and that’s what finally happened.  Improvements in

    performance led to the inevitable, and in July 1920, Studebaker dealer J. Franklin Sharp of Ogdensburg

    officially became the first to make the climb in an automobile.  The real trick was to do it while keeping the

    car in high gear for the entire run.

 

       It was said that Packards had climbed Studley in the past, and that may have been true.  Prohibition 

    had been in effect for nearly a year, and the Packard was a favorite of bootleggers.  The Duane Road  

    was a route they commonly used.

 

      Sharp’s feat was easily achieved, but without drama.  As one reporter put it, “The eyes of the motor  

    world between Utica and the St. Lawrence River were turned this afternoon toward Studley Hill, the 

    steepest grade in the northern country.  “This was considered the first official test-drive at Studley Hill, 

    and looking at a map of the wilds south of Malone, one might argue that getting 159 people to such a   

    remote location was the biggest accomplishment of the day”.  

      The wagering was described as heavy.  On  the very first attempt, Sharp’s Studebaker Big Six (named

    for its six cylinders) sped across the flat road to  running start of 55 mph.  As quickly as it began the

    steep ascent, the speedometer plunged.  All the while, spectators cheered wildly.  Difficult curves slowed

    the  car, but after about a mile, it crested the hill. 

    The car’s lowest speed was said to have been 15 mph.  With  Melville Corbette (Sharp’s garage foreman)

    behind the wheel, the trip was made in high gear four more  times, carrying passengers that included 

    Syracuse Post-Standard writers based in Malone and Saranac Lake.

 

       Meanwhile, Frank Sharp wasn’t finished for the day, deciding to attempt the hill in a lighter model, the

    Studebaker Special Six.  Much to the surprise of himself and everyone else, the car climbed ably to the

    top.  It was a great endorsement of the Studebaker brand for dealers across the North Country when

    headline stories later told the tale.

   

       Just as hiking down a mountain can sometime be as difficult as climbing up, descending Studley  

    Hill offered its own unique challenges.  Many accidents there involving cars or horse-drawn vehicles

    prompted some unusual signage.  Drivers approaching the steep descent to the north were cautioned by

    roadside warnings, the first which offered the standard Drive Slow.  A second suggested the harrowing

    drop that awaited Keep Your Head.  A third and very large sign was unofficially posted by someone with a

    sense of humor.  And who would dare question its effectiveness.  In large, handwritten red lettering, it

    said simply, prepare to Meet Thy God.

  

        In 1921 there were two successful assaults on the hill.  A huge touring car, the Paige Lakewood 6-66 

    (11  feet distance between the centers of the front and rear tires) accomplished the feat to great fanfare.

    (A Paige had won at Pikes Peak the previous year.)

 

        Paige representatives from Malone and Rochester were on hand, proud to point out that unlike the

    climb by Studebaker in 1920, their car did it without aerodynamics-the top and windshield were up, and  

    two passengers occupied the back seat.  The wind drag and extra weight (the car alone weighted 3,500 

    lbs.) were handled on several successful attempts.

 

       Six months later, an Olds Four climbed the grade in high gear.  Successful tries were often touted by

    the manufacture as some type of “first”.  The Olds people said theirs was the first “closed car carrying

    three passengers” to climb the hill in high gear.

 

       Technological changes led to even more impressive feats.  In April 1924, a Flint Six (made in Flint,

    Michigan by a subsidiary) tackled what one writer called “the Waterloo of all cars”.  This time there would

    be no running start.  With the car parked at the base of the hill, high gear was engaged, and remained so

    throughout the climb.  Despite sections of tire-sucking mud and slippery snow, the Flint crested Studley

    Hill  without dropping below 15 mph.

 

     A special thank you to John Streiff  for sending this article to me.

 

 

    Gloria Gori,  Town Historian

  

 

North Star Camp

 

This was a co-ed camp in Duane that was the only post-war “religious” Jewish camp located in the Adirondacks at that time.  The camp was situated on the Partridge Park property off Route 30, a short distance from Bedford Boy Scout Camp.  The major buildings were centered around Lake Florence on a 1,313 acre parcel.  The property was purchased from Bronson Trevor by Henry Pessar and Myron Gordon, both from New York City, in 1945.  By 1946, all construction was completed and the camp opened. 

The camp was limited to 140 campers with a staff of 60.  All staff had to be college trained or its equivalent identification with Orthodox Judaism and the Hebrew culture, with very selected character references.  The camp session was 8 weeks, at $500 per camper.

The camp program provided a well-rounded summer of sports, arts, spiritual life, hobbies, and crafts.  There were well-equipped-athletic courts, including baseball, basketball, tennis, handball, volleyball, badminton, archery, croquet and ping pong.  Water sports included swimming, rowing, canoeing, fishing and sailing, all made safe by the American Red Cross Licensed Life Guard Swimming instructors.

The Recreation Hall contained a fully equipped stage.  Campers learned all that was involved in the theater arts and had the opportunity to participate in musical, dramatic and dance productions.  The hall also contained a giant fireplace, a library, and area for indoor games.

A Synagogue provided Friday night and Saturday services in Hebrew language.  Informal Hebrew study groups were conducted in prayer, song, stories and dance to stimulate creative experiences in Jewish life.

Twenty cabins were equipped with electricity, hot and cold running water, bathroom and shower facilities with screened windows.  Lake Florence had its own dam and power house to generate the camp’s electricity.

There was an infirmary that provided a resident doctor and nurse.  A dining hall, with a well equipped kitchen, prepared meals of the highest standard of Kashruth.  The camp maintained their own butcher shop with large freezing units, besides its own bakery shop.  Not far from the camp was a stable filled with horses.  Instructors taught English riding and many campers refined their riding skills during the summer.  A Hobby House contained a Craft Shop, Nature Den, Photography Room and Sewing Center.

In 1960, the camp was run by Benjamin Sacks of Brooklyn, and he changed the name to Star Lake.  In 1961, H.J. Goldenberg took charge of the camp until it closed in 1962.

Jim Gadway, a Duane resident, was camp caretaker for many years.  His daughter, Carol, drowned in Lake Florence in 1954.  She was 12 years old and one of my best friends.       

Sources: Adirondack Museum, Tax Rolls and a special thank you to Donalda Premo and correspondences from Ruth Bernstein, a former camper from New York City.

 

 

 

DeBar Mountain Game Refuge

 

             In 1926 New York State established its first game refuge located near Minerva, in Essex County.  By 1928, the  

         number had grown to ten.  This was also the year the state purchased 10,000 acres of land on and around DeBar

         Mountain for the DeBar Mt. Game Refuge.  The state’s goal for the refuge was to provide protection and a food

         supply so wildlife important to hunting and fishing in the area could propagate successfully.  It was also the most

         active state effort directly undertaken to maintain elk that had been introduced into the Adirondacks.  This property

         was the largest and best adapted for elk to succeed.  The property was just recovering from a forest fire leaving

         portions suitable for crop plantings and it had natural meadows.  A large portion of this parcel was originally part

        of the Rockefeller Estate that the Reynolds Co. had purchased and had extensively lumbered. The parcel included

         all the southeastern corner of Duane bounded on the east by the Franklin town line, and on the south by Brighton,

         the  west by Meacham Lake property and extended north almost to DeBar Pond.  The purchase covered the

        southern slope of DeBar over to Sable Mt. and included the headwaters of Hayes Brook and the west branch of

        Hatch Brook.

           The Reynolds Co. reserved a section that included all of DeBar Pond and its south inlet, besides all the

        Schroeder estate buildings.  The company had a vision of turning the Schroeder estate into an exclusive private

        club.  They felt it was more feasible for the new macadam road, old Rt. 99, from Duane Center to Loon Lake had

        been completed.  Many town residents found employment with the construction of this road.  Francis Earle, my

        dad, his brother, William worked as water boys.  Estelle Earle, my grandmother, prepared meals for the crew.

        It took four long years of hard labor to prepare the refuge grounds.  Conservation Officer George Buckley and a

        crew first has to establish the boundary lines by cutting out all the underbrush and all other obstacles 10 feet inside

        the line, and then strung wire fence.  Then the line had to be heavily posted.  Mr. Buckley was assisted by summer

        crews from the CCC, the Civilian Conservation Corp., that helped in developing access roads, water supply

        projects,  cultivation of feed plots, and the building of sheds.

            March of 1932, six elk arrived at the refuge.  There are discrepancies on the origin of the elk that were released

   on the refuge.  An ADK trail guide cited that 6 elk were donated from a governor of a western state to Gov. Dewey. 

        However, Conservation Dept. records stated the gift of 5 cows and one bull was made by owners of the Blue Mt.

        Game Preserve, formerly the Blue Mt. Forest Park, located in Newport, New Hampshire.

        The experiment to release elk in our woods almost came to an abrupt end that very day.  Immediately after arrival,

         the bull leaped over an 8 foot coral fence, clearing it by more than a foot and disappeared into the woods.  Mr.

        Buckley with two helpers tracked the animal through the snow and after many hours they accomplished the

        seemingly impossible feat of lassoing the bull.  They bound him securely, placed him on a toboggan and then had

     torag him back to the coral.

            The state had hopes that this donation of 6 elk would make a nucleus of a large herd.  The elk were fed alfalfa

        in a feeding shed during winter.  During the summer and fall they had a smorgasbord of feed plots of buckwheat,

        oats, and corn to graze on, so they were contented not to roam off the refuge grounds.  Three elk calves were

        born the next year.  By 1934, the Conservation Dept. reported 16 elk survived through one of the severest winters

        the region had ever known.  A report in 1936 noted that elk had rambled as far as Mountain View, Partridge Park

        and Tupper Lake.  It was difficult to estimate the number on the refuge, but their tracks were numerous.   

  

         An article from Saranac Adirondack Enterprise, 1984, described the refuge, “A wilderness Disneyland

      ----- a mischievous but harmonious madhouse of deer, bear, snowshoe hare, beaver and grouse. 

     Anything lived trapped in the southern Adirondacks and considered a nuisance was brought north and

     released into DeBar Refuge.”  One article stated a golden eagle had been trapped in a quail trap on there

     refuge.

     Another report stated over 200 beaver living on the refuge.  These busy little engineers had constructed

     dams which had resulted in the formation of a least a dozen new ponds on the refuge.  A story from the

     Malone Farmer stated that Officer Covey released the heaviest beaver to be trapped in the state.  A

     female tipped the scales at 67 pounds.  A previous record of 52 pounds had been broken.

     The size of the elk population dwindled in the 40’s.  There was no further mention of elk after 1943.  The

     last evidence of the elk in the Adirondack Mts. Was a report of one killed by a William Vandivert in Essex

     County during the fall of 1946.

         An announcement in 1945, due to a change in a conservation law, the state decided to open the refuge

      for hunting antlered deer and bear from Nov. 10-30th.  Permits would be issued at the easterly entrance

      at  Rt. 99 and the entrance at Meacham Lake Campgrounds.  This created a public uproar.  The Franklin

     County Bd. Of Supervisors chaired by Francis Earle condemned the action.  The Board felt there would be

     a mass slaughter of deer that had been protected for many years.  Mr. Earle released a statement to the

     press condemning the decision stating, “action was contrary to the belief and teachings of all true

     conservationists”.  The Conservation Dept. conducted an investigation.  They felt the game refuge was noserving the purpose it was set out to do.  The change in the law was stated as “bad timing” and the

     decision was made that the refuge would not be open to hunting.

         During the years caretaker George Buckley lived on the refuge, he conducted extensive studies on the   

     behavior of the white-tailed deer, their natural browse, and winter habits.  He collected annual sheds, jaws

     with teeth that were all sent to Delmar Conservation Lab.  He raised four fawns saved from a forest fire. 

     The refuge became a great tourist attraction for the wild deer would come in and mingle with the tame.

     Plausible reasons for the elk disappearance were perhaps the heavy hunting pressure, illegal hunting, and

     the war years.  The Dept was working on a skeleton crew.  The planting of feed-plots were greatly curtailed

     and the feed supplements were not distributed through the winter months.  Soybeans and molasses

     considered as war essentials were not available and they had been a stable for a winter supplement.

   I could not find when the state abandoned the refuge.  I do know caretakers lived on the grounds in the 

     seventies.  Another article in the Adirondack Enterprise in 1984 stated, “when Debar was turned back to

     public hunting the slaughter drew rave notices from opponents who described the land and water running

     red with the blood on the innocents”. 

 

     Research from Malone Farmer,

     Adirondack Enterprise, Adirondack Journal of Environmental Studies 997

 

                                                                                        Gloria Gori

Town of Duane Historical Notes

Prepared by:  Gloria Gori, Town Historian

 

With our Newsletter titled “The Guide” picturing Duane Guide Trim, I felt what would be more fitting to acquaint everyone with another Duane Guide, William Sprague.  I could

never be as eloquent as Mr. Sprague’s obituary that was taken from the “Malone Farmer” June 27, 1917.  The article is such a contrast on how obituaries are written today. 

The article states so much about the character of this gentleman who called Duane his home.

 

WITH THE GRAND ARMY OF IMMORTALS

Wm. H Sprague Honored GAR Veteran and Adirondack guide has gone to his reward.

 

The world lost one of the most honest, sincere, frank, loyal, sympathetic but sturdy souls Thursday evening (June 21, 1917) when Wm. H. Sprague of Malone. For many years a leading citizen of Duane, passed out of life.  Bill Sprague was a man of the Lincoln type – strong and rugged as an oak with a heart that was never tempted to dissemble and was as simple and tender as a child’s.  For years he followed the life of a small farmer and a Adirondack guide in Duane and his tall muscular, willowy form was as much a part of the Meacham Lake country as the tall pines about the hotel, which have braved the storms that swept the Lake for more than two centuries, or DeBar Mountain itself which

stands sentinel over its waters.  Bill Sprague was a man of high intelligence and stalwart purpose, possessed of a nature that reflected the sunshine of the Meacham landscape and of a droll, irresistible humor that made him one of the most delightful companions as a guide through the forest recesses by 100% because he was a fit colleague for the influential men seeking rest for tired nerves and the delights and quiet of woodland scenes and sports, when he had so often rowed or paddled through the best fishing places, or accompanied on the hunt.  These men during the years that Meacham has been popular as a resort, have embraced some of the most conspicuous figures of the country and half of their anticipation in looking forward to their vacation was that they would have Bill Sprague for company.

As long as he followed the occupation as a guide, he never lacked employment, for if Bill could be had, no one else would do, though Meacham had others just as good hunters and fishermen.  He was running over with good nature and had a great fund of good stories, yet he was steady and serious and knew when to work and sweat and when to laugh and play.  Mr. Sprague was a man of positive convictions, with a backbone like a rail, and his influence upon community in which he lived was for the best things and had very large weight for he was greatly loved and respected.  He was one of the finest types of the Adirondack Guides of the thirty to forty years ago to be found anywhere, imbued with the simple tastes and naturalness of the denizens in and of the forest country – fearless, God loving, sympathetic, warm-heated and hospitable.  The type is fast disappearing.  Irving Bacheller in his search for strong characters for his charming stories that he weaves would find nowhere in all this North Country a better subject, or one which would appeal to the emotions of the reader, than in the life of Mr. Sprague. He was our friend – always our friend.  We knew we could always count on him, for he knew the things we stand for and he could never be deflected from his loyalty by rues or subtleties.  The overpowering thought of standing for what he believed to be the right thing was always with him.  He had the strength of the hills, among which he had lived the greater part of his life, in them.

Mr. Sprague was born in Peru, Clinton County, nearly 75 years ago, and had been a resident of Duane since his 17th year until coming to Malone to reside 3 years since in order to be where he and his family could have more convenient medical attendance.  He was a member of a large family which settled in Duane in its pioneer days as a hamlet almost at the top of things in the nearby wilderness.  Amid these surroundings, he grew to manhood, farming and hunting and fishing, a vocation which he deeply loved and continued to follow as long as his health would permit.  He still owned the farm of the Meacham Road on which he so long resided.  After the breaking out of the Civil War, he enlisted in the Cavalry and earned the honor of being a brave and patriotic soldier – and patriotism and love of country burned brightly within him to the day of his death.  His love of his GAR comrades and loyalty to them was proverbial and no man in the organization was held in deeper affection by his associates. For 14 years he gave to his town unsparing and selfish service as supervisor and was one of the best known and most highly regarded members of the Franklin County Bd. of Supervisors.  His colleagues had great confidence in his good sense and integrity.  He served on many important committees and was clothed with many responsibilities by the Board.  He was long prominent in local Republican circles and many times represented the Republicans of Duane in County conventions.  During the latter years of his life he

was one of the pillars of the Methodist Church in Duane, and after coming to Malone was, as long as his health permitted, a regular attendant on the services of Centenary Methodist Episcopal Church. Mr. Sprague married Charlotte Ames of Duane.  They were congenial spirits and their married life was a happy one.  Mrs. Sprague, three daughters and a son survive to cherish the memory of an affectionate home loving husband and father.  The daughters are Mrs. Dora Clark of Oklahoma; Mrs. Frank Murphy of Duane and Miss Cora Sprague who resides with her mother.  The son Frank, of Gabriels.  Four brothers and a sister also survive.  They are John of Bloomingdale; Joel of Leicestershire, N.Y.; Alfred of Duane, Warren of Brighton and Mrs. James Powell of Schenectady. The funeral took place from the home on Elbow St, Saturday afternoon, Rev. C.M. Gearhart officiating; interment in Duane Cemetery. Mr. Sprague has been in failing health all winter but a few days ago rallied sufficiently to be about the streets again, though far from well and suffering from weakness.  Experiencing a relapse, he failed steadily until it was realized for a couple of weeks or more that he was near the end.  He fought a good fight; he kept the faith and sleeps the sleep of the just.

 

 

 

History of Duane, New York
FROM: HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF FRANKLIN COUNTY
AND ITS SEVERAL TOWNS
BY: FREDERICK J. SEAVER
PUBLISHED BY J. B. LYON COMPANY, ALBANY, NY 1918


CHAPTER XIV
DUANE

Duane was formed from Malone January 24, 1828, the first settlement in the town having been made about 1824 by men employed by James Duane, from whom the town takes its name. It then included Brighton and three townships of Harrietstown.

Mr. Duane was of distinguished ancestry, his grandfather having been the first mayor of the city of New York, a State Senator, member of the Council of Appointment, and for several years a judge of the United States court. He was the founder of Duanesburgh, Schenectady county. Our Mr. Duane married Harriet, daughter of William Constable of New York, who was one of the large land owners in Franklin county in the apportionment of the Macomb purchase, and also a ship owner and importing therchant. For his day he possessed great wealth. His ships sailed to all parts of the world, and when he or members of his family desired to voyage to Europe he was accustomed to fit up one of his own vessels, and employ it much as the modern millionaire uses his yacht. Mr. Constable came to this country from London, England, where he had a fine establishment in the aristocratic residential district. It is told of him that upon the occasion of a visit to that city, after he had become a resident of New York, he was met in the street by Benedict Arnold, who greeted him with extended hand. Mr. Constable refused to see the hand or in any way to respond to the salutation. Notwithstanding the immense land holdings of Mr. Constable here, he never visited the county. After his death, however, a brother journeyed twice through our northern towns, inspecting the Constable properties, examining into the methods employed by the local agents, and in some cases dealing directly with those who held lands under contract.

A part of Mr. Constable’s holdings, amounting to 34,589 acres in township No. 12, and to 10,000 acres in No. 9, had become the property of Mrs. Duane by inheritance, and at about the time that the wolfbounty frauds were rife, burdening non-resident land owners so sorely, Mr. Duane came to this county to make it his home. His motive, in large part, was to do what he could to stamp out the business. “Judges, church members, respectable neighbors, all were in it, and winked at enormous sums being spent, which all came out of the non-resident taxpayers.” Mr. Duane arrived in Malone with his family in 1824, and located in that village until he could make a road thence to his own lands and build there. His operations were on a tremendous scale for that day, and, with the exception of a single instance, never since has Duane enjoyed an equal activity and prosperity. Possessed of means of his own, and backed by the wealth of his father, he undertook a development which involved the employment of considerable help, the establishment of several industries, and a heavy expenditure. A part of his help he brought with him fiom Schenectady county, and others were attracted from other points in this locality by the opportunity to obtain employment and to purchase lands at low prices, with the privilege of paying for them in labor. A brick kiln was built just north of the foot of Studley Hill, and operated by a Mr. Studley (from whom the hill takes its name), a saw mill was constructed on the Duane stream for getting out the lumber needed in building, a farm of three hundred acres was cleared and brought into the highest state of cultivation, engineers were employed for three years to locate deposits of iron, a forge was erected on the Duane stream just below where it is crossed by the Hopkinton and Port Kent turnpike, and later, after Mr. Duane had been joined by his brothers, Robert and Mumford, a furnace was established on Deer river, and operated for six or seven years. Its product averaged about one hundred tons a year of the very finest quality of iron. But the expense of marketing the output was so great that operations were prosecuted at a loss. The Duane residence, since burned, was one of the best for its time in the county, and there were two fine gardens of two acres each, which are now all grown up to weeds and briars. The farm, too, is neglected and apparently abandoned, no member of the family remains in the town, and only traces of the Duane works are to be seen.

In another chapter Mrs. Lowell, a daughter of Mr. Duane, who died at Schenectady in 1890, is quoted at considerable length, and additional extracts from her charming pamphlet, “Recollections of an Old-Fashioned Lady,” are here given: “A good many families, some from the neighborhood and some that father had brought with him from Duanesburgh, had moved in, made little clearings, and built log houses while he was getting ready to build. They must have lived chiefly on the wages he paid them, or the money advanced, until they began to raise crops, for only people who are not very well off settle on new land. There were so many families that, although most of them were young people and their children yet babies, by the time that mother got there (1827) she had forty children in her Sunday school. [The population of Duane in 1830 was 247 and in 1840 it was 324, or more than it has ever been since except in two decades, one of which was during the Schroeder activity.] * * * As the country opened, and the roads improved, to her great delight, mother often had her house filled with company. She proved the truth of the old adage, ‘Where there is heart-room there is house-room,’ by poking us into crannies, and perhaps accommodate a party of six or eight who might unexpectedly arrive after ten o’clock at night. * * * Such quantities of food had to be cooked for the men! Beside seven or eight who were clearing the farm, a squad were working in an ore-bed and living in a shanty. Their bread had to be baked in the house, they doing the rest of the cooking themselves; upsetting all the economy of the kitchen utensils by their demands. One time our women not only baked for our large household, but for a gang of men at the forge and for another who were cutting down trees where Uncles Robert and Mumford were about to build the furnace. Our great brick oven, which would hold fifteen large loaves, was heated every day but Sunday, and twice on Saturday. * * * The land unfortunately abounded in iron ore. Ore-bed after ore-bed was discovered, worked, and given up. * * * A great deal was spent to make the mineral wealth productive. At last (in 1828) they did get fine beds opened. Father built a forge, made bar iron which sold excellently at the Clinton rolling mills; the good time looked to be coming. Just then came the freshet which destroyed so many lives and so much property in Vermont and Northern New York, and carried off the forge. The little stream which one could step over on stones, except where it was dammed, was so swollen that the whole ravine it ran through was filled like a deep river. * * * He built another forge; it was burned; another; it was carried off by another freshet. * * * Uncle Robert, with Uncle Mumford, put up a large blast furnace at Deer river, about five miles from our house; their works looked like a village. The great furnace, the stone bellows-house, the blacksmith shop, the three coal houses filled with charcoal burnt in the neighborhood, their own house and two barns, a frame tavern which they built and rented to a man who could board some of the people they employed who would not mess with the men. It was a wonderful treat to go over and see the casting at the furnace; men carrying great round ladles, redhot, filled with melted iron, to pour into the molds. In the long run neither they nor poor father made by their manufactories. But they spent more of dear grandpa’s money than the lands had ever been valued at upon it. * * *

“Father and iiiother were practically parson and doctor to the settlement. Each had a medicine chest, stocked, and they also had two doctor-books — ‘ Thompson’s Domestic Medicine’ and ‘The Family Physician.’ When the people were sick they used to consult father and mother, who would look out the case in the book, and weigh out what they supposed to be the right medicine. They always furnished every comfort in. their power, so that it was looked upon as a right for any to send for medicine, tea, white bread and currant jelly, or for father to come and bleed them. * * *

“The way father came to build the pretty little school house, looking so much like a church (which you remember, but which is gone now) was this: The people had to hold their first town meeting in a log school house; he saw that it was lowering to their self respect as a community, and himself put up a neat frame building which could be used as a school house, town house and church. Most of the elder heads of families were members of the Congregational Church. On Sundays they used to hold their meetings in the morning in this way: One brother made a prayer; then Deacon Esterhrooks gave out one of Watts’s hymns. * * * They had another hymn; another prayer; no Bible, but a sermon read. After this service came intermission. The women sat eating their lunch on the benches by the wall. Mother had her forty Sunday scholars on planks rested on benches, so as to form a triangle ‘round her chair. Soon, the men, who had adjourned to the fields if it were pleasant, or the shed if it stormed, began to come in and listen too. Sunday school and recess over, father read the Church service, the people all responding, and liking it very much. These were the first [Episcopal] church services held in any of our northern counties. Miss Harison well said when St. Mark’s, Malone, was hung in black at his death, ‘It was just. for he introduced the church into the county.’”

Mr. and Mrs. Duane were devoted members of the Episcopal Church. Mrs. Lowell says: “About three years after we moved up to Duane a church was organized in Plattsburgh; a young deacon, Rev. Anson B. Hard, put in charge. He came out to Malone and held, in the court house, the first [Episcopal] church service, except the lay readings, ever held in Franklin count.. The roads were still very rough; there had been heavy rains; the children all had the whooping cough; nothing stood in the way. Father took us all — mother, the nurse and four children — in a lumber wagon to the village. The water in holes in the road was so deep that several times it went over the sides of the wagon. We were five hours going fourteen miles. * * * A few church people had moved into Malone; a few were attracted by the services; and before long there were occasional visits from missionaries, when we always went down— sometimes getting up before light to be intime. * * *

“It might seem strange, when. the household was conducted on so large and munificent a scale,, there should have been such a lack of money. The master and mistress allowed themselves few personal indulgences, and found it difficult to scrape enough together to send a boy to school. It was that everything was raised on the farm except a supply of groceries and dry goods from the stores in Malone, in a manner I shall describe by-and-by. The farm was three hundred acres in the highest state of cultivation. It is understood by persons settling townships of wild land that farms half paid for, with the remainder under contract (that is, mortgaged to the seller, with interest to be paid) are worth more than those not sold at all. This great farm was worked by laborers paying for the first half of their farms in Number Nine by work. There was so little money going in that part of the country in those days that ‘store pay’ was the regular remuneration; cash, the exception. Farmers who owed interest on their land, or who wanted to make a payment on the second half, never brought money. They ‘turned in’ cattle, butter, grain, or whatever they had, to the country merchants, and gave due bills. The merchants took the cattle to Shoreham, the butter to St. Albans, and so got the money to pay the city dealers who supplied them. Goods were bought on six months’ credit, and had to be turned two or three times before money could be got for them. So that this large farm, where everything was brought to perfection and carried on on so large a scale, was managed without our seeing any money. We always had from four to five men in the winter, and from six to twelve in the summer; in haying I have counted seventeen. We killed our own beeves and mutton, cured our own pork; father saw to the hams himself, and we had everything of the very best. * * * There was no market for anything. They did not know how to sell if there had been. Consequently we had a supply, as free as water, of things that are stinted by money-value elsewhere. Of cauliflowers, asparagus, sweet corn and the like there were more than could be eaten in parlor and kitchen.”

Besides the Duane activities already noted, the town had at one time a grist mill on the Duane stream, and John Smith operated a “leather factory” in 1834. Among other hides and peltries, catamount skins were tanned, there. The bark mill used by Mr. Smith was afterward brought to Malone, and became a part of the Lincoln tannery. Near this point, too, as well as at the furnace, Major Duane erected a boarding house for the employees in the mine and at the forge, which was run also as a hotel eighty years or more ago.

Mr. Duane served his town for many years as supervisor, and became an officer in the militia, ranking as major. He died in 1859.

The eldest son of Major Duane (James Chatham) was a West Point graduate, and during the war of the rebellion served with distinction as an engineer in the army of the Potomac. He built the pontoon bridge for General McClellan across the Chickahominy, which was the longest bridge of that kind ever constructed up to that time, and was in charge of many other military engineering works. He rose to the rank of brigadier-general. After the close of the war he was for a number of years the head of the United States lighthouse board, and then became a member of New York city’s aqueduct commission which planned the system of works for supplying the metropolis with water from the Catskills.

Stephen Kempton operated a saw mill on the Duane stream in later years, which Isaac Chesley afterward owned and worked, and still later a Mr. Walker ran a steam mill near the same point for a year or two. Oren Grimes (who had been manager for the lumbering interests at St. Regis Falls) and his son-in-law, Fred O’Neil (afterward county treasurer for six years, and then postmaster at Malone for seventeen years) began lumbering in 1875 on Deer river, near where the Duane furnace had been, and continued in the business for about twelve years, when they sold to Ladd & Smallman of Malone, who sold to Nelson Trushaw and Peter King. The latter were burned out in 1892. George McNeil had preceded Grimes & O’Neil in lumbering here, and had an English gate mill and tub factory. Francis Skiff was there even before McNeil. Grimes & O’Neil rebuilt the mill, and apparently the frame tavern which Mrs. Lowell refers to as having been rented to a man who was to board such of the furnace operatives as would not mess with the common hands was run as a public house also; for there was then a good deal of travel past the place on the Hopkinton and Port Kent turnpike. I am told that when the house was closed in the Duane period the key was simply turned in the door, and furniture, bedding and clothing left in it to mould and decay. The tavern became the Grimes homestead. It was bought years later by E. P. Perkins, who tore it down, and now even the spot where it stood can hardly be located. Still another mill was built near the headwaters of Deer river by Fenderson & Ford in 1891 and another in 1905 by Conger Bros. of Brushton at Lake Duane. The latter burned in 1907 with a loss of $7,500.

During the time that Grimes & O'Neil lumbered here John Duane, a son of the major, tore down the old furnace building in order to get the iron in it to sell. The structure- was of stone, as high as an ordinary three-story building, and the walls were reinforced by great bars of iron two or three inches wide and thirty to forty feet long. Of course the building served no purpose standing idle, and yet it seems too bad that it should have been dismantled and destroyed. The foundation walls of some parts of the works are still visible.

Apart from the Duane enterprises, the town had no industrial history of moment until about 1883, when Robert Schroeder of New York, who bought hops in Franklin county for a number of years, determined to become a grower himself on an extensive scale, and purchased more than two thousand one hundred acres of farm and forest lands on the plateau which comprises substantially all of the arable land in the town, paying fancy prices for most of it as measured by the valuations which had theretofore been prevalent, or by those which now obtain. He erected large and expensive hop houses; set out several hundred acres to hops; bought barn fertilizer in New York city, freighted it to Malone, and then hauled it fifteen to eighteen miles by team to the yards. Everything was done with a lavish disregard for expense, and there were no profits. The yield per acre was light, the price of hops fell to a point below the cost even of economical production, and after a time yard after yard was abandoned until none remained in cultivation. Of his forest land Mr. Schroeder made a private park, and built a fine cottage on the shore of a handsome sheet of water known as Debar pond. He was then a bachelor, and with a gentleman employee and friend as companion spent a good deal of his time in the summer months at this point. Male guests from New York city were present frequently, and upon such occasions the fun was reported to have been fast and “loud.” These affairs were expensive, too, for items of wine and broken china, and the upkeep of the cottage could hardly have been less than that of the farms. The cottage was once burned, but was rebuilt even finer than before. Mr. Schroeder at length failed, and the entire property was sold at a great shrinkage in price as compared with cost. Mr. Schroeder returned to New York city to reside, and committed suicide there a few years ago.

In the old days Duane had two hotels besides the Duane establishments for the accommodation of stage travelers and the few sportsmen who sought the locality for hunting and fishing. One was kept by Hiram Ayers, and the other by Ezekiel Ladd, who built it in 1839, ‘and who was succeeded by Jabez Hazen, Henry Woodford, James Bean and Robert Ladd. The building was burned in 1890 and rebuilt by Robert Ladd. This latter hotel is now the town house. Later William J. Ayers had a summer hotel that was famous for the excellence of its table, and which, until it was burned, enjoyed a considerable patronage, and George Selkirk now conducts a modest establishment for summer boarders and sportsmen in the western part of the town. Lake Meacham was long one of the best trout waters and deer hunting localities in the Adirondacks, and still gives good sport in these regards. Before the civil war “Aunt. Mary” Wine lived there in a cabin, and cared for chance visitors in a crude but hospitable way. Then a little better house, kept by John Titus for several years, and afterward by Henry Woodford, began to attract custom, and in 1872 was purchased by Isaac Chesley and Alonzo R. Fuller, by whom it was enlarged and improved. Mr. Chesley retired from the partnership after a year or two, after which Mr. Fuller conducted the hotel alone for perhaps twenty years. Something like eighteen years ago the house burned, and was wholly rebuilt on modern lines. Shortly afterward the place changed hands, and is at present managed by A. H. Mould for the owners. Mr. Fuller was a gentleman of exceptional intelligence, with the tastes of the naturalist abundantly developed. He was one of the first men in the country to demonstrate the practicability of artificial propagation of fish, and was an authority on everything pertaining to the forests. His ability and attainments were recognized by the most eminent scientists, and for years he was in correspondence with Agassiz and other men of like standing, who sought his views and statement of his experiments and knowledge. Mr. Fuller’s influence in the community was a force for good in every respect, and through his teachings and agency in various forms, and also through association with his guests, the people of the town gained remarkably in material welfare, general appearance, intelligence and morality. Mr. Fuller removed to Malone, where he conducted a jewelry store and “clock hospital” until his death in 1912.

Though until a recent period without a house built expressly for purposes of worship, Duane had religious services from earliest, times. It has already been seen how these were arranged and conducted under the distinctively Duane influence, with occasional visitations by Episcopalian deacons or clergy, with regular lay readings by Major Duane himself, and with Congregational worship under home leadership. Only a few years later the indefatigable Methodist Episcopal circuit riders, or pastors from adjacent towns, carried their ministrations here, even if somewhat irregularly, and, with a persistence not manifested by any other denomination, held to the field until it became their own exclusively. Duane was between two Methodist charges or stations. Saranac mission in the Troy conference, and Malone in the Black river (now Northern New York) conference; and it was visited sometimes by the preacher of one and sometimes by that of the other, besides being served from time to time by local preachers residing within its own territory. Such services were held generally in the “pretty little school house looking so much like a church” that was built by Major Duane. In 1836 Rev. Jehiel Austin, appointed to Saranac mission, and who made Merrillsville his home, extended his work to Duane, and formed a class there. Several families united with the Methodist Episcopal Church at about this time, and the work prospered for about two years, when business disturbances and reverses occasioned a number of removals from the town, and the work languished. But John Adams, a local preacher or exhorter, who lived on the place afterward owned by William Steenberge, officiated at services from time to time between 1839 and 1844, and in the latter year a Mr. Parish, then stationed at Merrillsville, preached in Duane also. It was in 1849 that Methodism was permanently organized in Duane, Rev. Ebenezer Arnold, stationed at Malone, forming a class there, and having a regular week-day appointment in the town, the meetings being held at the residence of Hiram Ayers, who was the class leader. The other members were Mrs. Bigelow Ayers, Thurza Ayers, Joseph Sheffield, Sr., and wife, William Esterbrooks and a Mr. Bobbins. A Sunday school also was formed during the period with Thurza Ayers as superintendent. In the same year Rev. Alonzo Wells, then of Bangor, supplied the appointments both at Duane and Chasm Falls, the work at these points having been linked together almost from earliest times. In 1850, through the efforts of Rev. Mr. Arnold and Presiding Elder Isaac L. Hunt, South Malone and Duane were set apart from the Malone circuit, attached to the Chateaugay circuit, and called the Duane mission. Rev. B. F. Brown became pastor and Rev. Mr. Wells junior pastor — this arrangement continuing until 1852, except that Rev. William ‘Chase succeeded Mr. Wells. In 1852 the connection between these missions and Chateaugay was severed, and they were united with Dickinson, under the ministration of Rev. Alleh Miller. In 1854 Rev. Chas. M. Bowen became pastor, and in 1853—9 the charge was supplied by Rev. Mr. Bowen, Rev. Mr. Northrup, Rev. Samuel ‘Salisbury, and Rev. Mr. Castle. The list of succeeding pastors appears in the appendix. The church edifice was erected in 1884 during the pastorate of Rev. J. R. Kay, and in this same period the name of the charge was changed to Chasm Falls. Within the past few years a marked revival of interest and increase in membership have been witnessed.

Duane is as distinctively a rural town as can be found in the State. It has no manufactories, no railway, and practically no business aside from that of its summer hotels and one or two saw mills. It has one post-office, one telephone and one telegraph office. In 1847 and again in 1858 it sought to have the south half of township Number Nine taken from Malone and joined to itself, but failed.

Though he was not a resident of the town, Thomas Meacham hunted and fished there so much that he deserves mention here. Meacham Lake was named by him, and his obituary stated that during his life he had killed 77 panther, 214 wolves, 210 bears and 2,550 deer. He died at Hopkinton in May, 1849.